More Western (African) Shirts...for Friends + 2 Vintage Patterns Sewn!!

The Roommate's Western (African) shirts have been well-received all up & down the East Coast. We were having dinner w/ some good friends near Union Square & I got a request to make another western shirt.  

So, I came home & went thru the remnants of my fabric from West Africa, and found one piece that I thought would be good for the contrast.  The problem was finding main color to show off the wax print.  I didn't have any, or not nearly enough; my source for West African prints (G Street) didn't have any, so I broke down & bought some Marimekko (on sale at Crate & Barrel outlets) for my friend, and a very tiny print for his little boy.  (There was no way I could make dad a shirt without making a tiny one, too!)

Oh, and they are both from vintage patterns!  For you #vintagepledge sewists out there!  Simplicity 6693 is the men's pattern, and McCall's 7456 is the boy's pattern (I made version E).  

Above is the back of the little boy's shirt.  I was especially pleased how the diamond design worked (and look at how well the collar matches!).  This is some crazy fabric!  I was cutting  everything from the same piece, but there are so many different designs, I was able to get lots of different looks from it.  

And here is the dad's shirt.  The wax print looks amazing with the Marimekko, huh?!

 

Even the green placket is from the very edge of the fabric!  Though it sort of looks like chile peppers on it.  Or xmas-y.  But I couldn't resist using as much as possible of this amazing textile, in honor of the Africans who don't waste any of their fabric.  

Because this is the fabric that keeps on giving, I was able to find plenty of 'centerpieces' to use on the front & back yokes.  

One thing I really worried about was fitting.  Our friend is a much different shape than the Roommate (besides being 20 yrs younger!), so I knew that my current pattern wouldn't work.  So, said friend took off the shirt he was wearing, in the restaurant & gave it to me (he had a t-shirt on underneath)!  I did lots of measuring of that shirt then re-traced the whole pattern, incorporating those measurements, onto a different set of pieces.  (Next post will be about storing those pattern pieces.)  

A few more detail shots below.  

And, my friend, modeling his new shirt.  I was so pleased...I sent it to his office & he didn't wait 'til he got home to try it on, instead sending me a picture from work.  (I'm the same way, I still wear new shoes home from the store whenever possible!)  I'm thrilled!  

Quick Update! Stay Tuned for More Details on These Projects

First up, 2 western (African) shirts, made for a friend & his little boy.  Both are from vintage patterns, and the contrast fabric is from my stash from our trip to West Africa.  

And, this weekend I started on a Colette Patterns Cooper backpack, using canvas Charley Harper fabrics & Heat 'n' Bond iron-on vinyl!  This is going to be a cool backpack, but I'm seriously thinking I may need to make another smaller purse out of matching fabric, too. Maybe using the BB Bag pattern I already have...

I hope to get something written up this next weekend about these, and another item that is close to being finished.  More later...

Some Sewing Links to Soothe Your Soul--Or Empty Your Wallet!

While in NYC a few weeks ago, sewing came up more than once and I thought I'd share a few cool things I've recently discovered that I know the sewiverse could take an interest in.

First, City Quilter.  So much fun!  Great selection of fabric (lots of Japanese stuff), plus some of their own designs in the City Collection, which are NYC-themed fabrics (for example, Times Square, above). Cool!

Have you ever wanted a DIY couture sewing kit?  Have you dreamed of learning some crazy-amazing techniques? Have you heard of Alabama Chanin? Order a kit and get the fabric, notions & instructions.  Each pattern comes in multiple fabric & thread color choices...hundreds of options!  Anna's Garden skirt, below, is one of my favorites.  

You've probably heard of Spoonflower by now.  Design & print your own fabric (like on Project Runway!), and print it on anything from combed cotton to crepe-de-chine, or turn it into wallpaper, peel & stick decals or even wrapping paper!  I haven't tried it yet, but am thinking of getting some cotton printed with this photo from our community garden...

It's a photo of asters & marigolds which I played with a bit in Photoshop (obviously!). Spoonflower was having a giveaway today, so I ordered this print on a fat quarter of faille for free...just to try it out.

You probably know by now I'm a birder (and thrilled that Hedwig is here in DC!).  Also thrilling is that Charley Harper's wonderful bird & nature art has been turned into 4 different types of material by Birch Fabrics.  Here's a white-breasted nuthatch & a red-headed woodpecker on some canvas: 

And here's a list of shops that stock Birch Fabric (around the world).  

But I was thinking, "Hmmm, if I buy that it will get dirty so quickly once it's a backpack." So I googled "plasticize fabric" and found that there is such a thing as iron-on laminate!  My life is full. 

Even better, from the same website, a "how to" regarding sewing with laminated fabrics!  

And a new (to me) vintage pattern shop: So Vintage. Fun, but dangerous for my retirement fund!

So now you know where my brain is and how I'll be spending my recent federal government 1% raise!  Let me know if you try any of these things out; I'd love to hear what you think.

Simplicity 3994 - Karen Makes a Coat!? The Muslin

I found this pattern, Simplicity 3944, on etsy.  It's from 1941!  It cost 15 cents back then! 

It's a little bit of a weird pattern...at first I was freaked out because I couldn't tell whether it had been used & I thought that the markings on the pattern pieces had faded because I couldn't see any...then I realized that it had been used (there are markings in pencil & some lovely old-fashioned writing) so the pieces are ready to go.  But there still aren't any markings (darts, grain lines, etc).  I don't know how the original owner figured out how what shape & size the pieces should be and I can't tell if the 5/8" seams have been added.  

The instructions do say to add the 5/8" seam, so I'm guessing the previous owner did so.  

Not many markings on
the pattern pieces!

The patterns have only one mark, which you can see in the photo to the left. (It's part of the pocket.)

Can you see the G & the small & large dots?  I'm guessing the G & the small dots are clues; I'll look at the instructions more closely to see what the small dots mean.  I expect the large ones are just part of the pattern-making process.

Finally, here's the back of the pattern.  

I'm using an old sheet I got at the Salvation Army for the muslin...we'll see how it goes.  I still haven't decided what to do w/ my amazing double-sided fabric Marc Jacobs' wool from Mood: lined or unlined?  Reversible?  Is that even possible?  Or make contrasting cuffs & pockets to show the reverse?  I may have to head over the Allison @ Bits of Thread to help me with these decisions...

More 1960s Patterns from My Mom's Pattern Magazine

All Simplicity, BTW!

8286 & 8388; I don't know, that mustard color, not sure about it, but I love the pleated skirt in back!  

8394 & 8386

Nothing says the Sixties like jumpers & contrast plackets & collars, huh?!

8400

I can imagine wearing either of these, but with tights, not white socks.  

Though I have seen women with great legs who can pull that off. It's the right hairdo that kills me!

8439

Look at all the great stuff you get in that one pattern! 

8445 & 8391

I actually really like 8391; pretty princess-seamed dress--so flattering.  

Not so sure about the collars.  8445 is cute, too.  

8234 & 8254 - Jammies!

I love the I Dream of Jeannie look!  And the feather trim on the blue outfit.

More Vintage From My Mom...

Simplicity 5980, 1965

I got another amazing package from my mom the other day. Where is she getting this stuff from?!



So 2 more patterns, neither of which I will probably ever use, but still, they are very cool... Simplicity 5980 just wouldn't look that good on me, and McCall's 7472 is for a little girl (I don't remember that pattern, though).



The real treasure though, for only 60 cents, is the Fall/Winter 1969 Home Catalog, which is full of amazing pictures. It will definitely be my shopping guide the next time I head over to Ebay for some vintage pattern shopping (after I pay for my kitchen).



There are so many jumpers in this catalog!  The hairstyles & eye make-up is a lot of fun, too.  It would be a great guide for someone going to a 1960s party!

Simplicity 7472, no date,
"not suitable for chubby girls"

Simplicity 8345, no pattern

Fall/Winter 1969 Simplicity Home Catalog

Vintage Pattern Rebuttal! from my mom

Free McCall's pattern from Post Cereals, 1971

You may have seen Tilly's recent post about Vintage Patterns, and I was inspired to get out a few of mine (I think I have about 30, but I've only purchased 2 of them; the rest I'm fortunate enough to have received from my mom.  Lucky, huh?

I also had the desire for a new summer dress.  So I got out this one from McCall's (1971), which my mom got for free by sending in boxtops to Post Cereals. I'm putting aside the corduroy dress that Allison @ Bits of Thread helped me with, and the Starlet Suit, too, for a bit. I went downstairs & got out some of my West African fabric stash to try to match up available yardage w/ fabric requirements.  Hopefully you'll see me modelling this one very soon!

Simplicity 6081 from 1965

Simplicity 6698 from 1966

Simplicity 6788 from 1966

Style Icon - Lucille Ball! I Love Lucy!

Happy New Year all.  Hope your holidays were amazing.

I know I'm not the first person to suggest this, but how about looking at Lucille Ball as a style icon?  The Roommate & I were at an exhibit about I Love Lucy yesterday at the Library of Congress, and it's hard to miss how great her 1950s clothes were.  Of course she had a great figure & was a redhead, too (I can meet one of those requirements), so looked great all the time (unless she was being funny, and meant to look like a mess).

So here are some pictures I got from the web that demonstrate what I mean...

She loved polka-dots & wore them so well.  Maybe that's why I'm inspired to wear print dresses!  Also, I love swingy skirts too--so feminine.

I'm not that into weddings, but isn't this a pretty dress?

 More polka dots & a suit with a pencil skirt!

 I love this dress!  What a great collar.  And she's being silly but looks fabulous...

 And what an amazing geometric jacket.  Like a TV test screen, but fashionable!

 Did you know she was the first woman to be shown on TV while visibly pregnant?  The word was never used, but her pregnancy was written into the show and eventually Little Ricky appeared--even though she & Ricky had separate twin beds!   But here she is, in a gorgeous coat, back when women were forced to dress in some pretty awful maternity wear.  

The contrasting collar is so great!

Check out the Lucy - Desi Museum in Lucy's hometown, Jamestown, NY for more inspiration!

Music?  Babalu - Ricky Arnaz.

Vintage girl's pattern - blue coat - lining!

I got a request for the lining, so thought I'd get this up.  My mom got all the fabric, lining & buttons on the army base when she lived in Germany.

Here's the post where I talk about the coat & you'll see some old photos there.

And here's the post where you can see the pattern that my mom used.

Thanks for looking!

Hipsters vs. Old People: How to Tell the Difference

Or is there one?!  This is so true it hurts!

This is from a site called gag9.com

If you're wondering, yes I am sewing (mostly unsewing) and trying to decide whether or not to re-cut the bodice (I always buy an extra 1/2 yard for mistakes & mind changes!).  Fortunately for me winter hasn't arrived...yet!

Vintage Pattern - Girlswear

You've seen the photo of me in my little blue coat (and seen the coat by itself--it's one of the many items of children's clothing in our bedroom).  Well, here's the pattern.  Looking thru the vintage patterns I have from my mom, I came across this & thought you might enjoy seeing it.  

It's Simplicity 2336 & is from the early 1960s.  

Hopefully my mom will comment to let us know where she got it (Germany or the US?).  If it was Germany I'm sure it was on the army base; apparently it was easy to get items from the US on army bases (maybe it still is?).  

It's all over now, Baby Blue!

I woke up this morning with this song in my head:  Blue Sky, Allman Brothers, Dickie Betts singing.

Actually, I'm pretty happy, so I almost always have happy music in my head.  But that inspired me to try one more time...well, 4 more hours.  I just keep finding that if I made the darts big enough, it really messed up the bottom & sides.  And taking up in the middle (adding a 1/2" seam down the middle of the front on the muslin), just didn't seem to do it.  I also found (and am finding with the pattern I'm now adapting, too) that what fits on Helen, when cut out & sewed doesn't fit...sometimes not even close!

I never thought pattern making was easy; a friend in NYC does this for a living, and she's very much in demand, but I was right--it's difficult.  So I gave up & went thru my vintage patterns & found this one, Simplicity 9602, from my mom.  It's the right size--a 12 in the old size; 1971.  I still have to modify it a bit because I want a V-neck & a collar (still trying to get Scruffy Badger's Simplicity 7501!).  But since I'm starting with the correct size, not 6" too big, I'm hoping this will go better & faster.

I am finding that sewing with corduroy is a bit of a challenge.  I have to pin more & sew slower or everything crawls around.  And I'm used to pressing cotton, or linen, which is so hardy.  I'm using a very light hand so I don't mash the corduroy.  Here's the fabric in case you've forgotten thru all this what it looks like.  I was in Hancock again today (forgot a zipper, so I bought 3), and they still had the pincord (thin corduroy) on sale, so I got more...purple this time!  Another print, of course!

I've missed this class (ends 11/30): Bits of Thread Pattern Making class - Bodice, but this experience has definitely made me interested in taking the same thing, hopefully in the spring.

Children's clothing - from the US, or Germany...

I believe I mentioned that the Roommate & I collect children's clothing (women's, too) because it tends to be more traditional in terms of style & decoration (and certainly in terms of care). So often in places like SE Asia, Latin America, the Middle East, the men are wearing pants and t-shirts (which makes sense--these people work hard--why wear your fancy stuff to do manual labor?). But the women & especially the children often are wearing the traditional decorated handcrafted masterpieces. So today, I'm proud to show you something from our collection...that was mine! My mom made this for me!

So there I am, with my mom, in Germany in 1963.  And NO, my mom does not still have that coat!  She made it, too, and over the years many people have offered to buy it; mods are especially interested in it!

It hangs on our bedroom wall now (along with many other items from the collection that you've seen already).  One thing we're always on the lookout for is old hangers; wooden or plastic, especially smaller, children's-sized hangers.

My mom is an expert seamstress (though she doesn't sew much anymore) & you can see her hard work on these detail photos.  I especially love the lining!